KANSAS CITY TO BIRMINGHAM
BY J. C. McMANIMA
Americans are the greatest travelers on earth, and yet comparatively
few know their own country. Certain lines of travel seem to be
mapped out as the correct ones, and the people, like sheep, follow
the beaten path. Lines of travel are too apt to follow parallels
of latitude, just as immigration from the older states has generally
done. A few years ago it was hardly thought that a railroad could
become great unless it followed the east and west lines of tradition,
but this theory has long since been exploded. Travel is a liberal
educator, and it is well that facilities are growing better and
better for going speedily and comfortably from one section of
the country to another, and it is well that an increasing number
are taking advantage of these facilities.
One of the
most instructive trips that can be taken by one who is studying
the resources of different sections and who is interested in social
and business conditions, is a daylight trip over the Fort Scott
and Memphis line of the Frisco System from Kansas City to Birmingham,
Ala. While it is true that the distance is only 735 miles, the
trip is extremely interesting because of the diversity of country
passed through, the historical associations and the various phases
of life that are unfolded. Let us spend a short time in considering
such a journey from the standpoint of a Northerner, and the Southerner
can reverse the trip and experience the same satisfaction. To
get full satisfaction out of the trip and see the country as it
is, it is best to take a part of three days.
You will leave Kansas City about the middle of the forenoon
from the Union Station, where so many trains arrive and depart
daily. Soon after leaving the depot you cross the state line into
Kansas and go through that state in nearly a southerly direction
to and beyond Fort Scott, and then cross back into Missouri and
travel in a southeasterly direction to Springfield in the heart
of the Ozark mountain region, and 202 miles from Kansas City.
After leaving the smoke and noise of Kansas City behind you travel
for many miles through as fine an agricultural country as you
would care to see. Here you will see farm buildings that would
do credit to Illinois or Ohio, herds of fine stock that would
cause an Iowa farmer to envy the owner. This section is largely
prairie, but what nature left undone in the way of supplying trees
man has done by their cultivation, and fine groves are to be seen
in all directions. Shortly after passing Fort Scott, we cut across
a corner of the great Kansas coal fields, and see evidences of
the coal mining industry on all sides. Once again fairly started
into Missouri we pass through more fine farming country, but see
more trees and more indications of the great fruit industry of
the Ozark region. This is a favorite section for Northwestern
farmers who seek a milder climate and yet would avoid the low
lands and hills further on, and hundreds of them can be found
in this region. In this connection it may be said that improved
farms can yet be bought in this favored locality at prices that
are attractive to Northern farmers. As we approach Springfield
we see conclusive evidences that we are in the "Land of the
Big Red Apple," for thousand of acres of orchards can be
seen from the car windows. To the person making this trip for
the first time this is a revelation and is worth the trip in itself.
Land is higher here, but yet not high compared with land similarly
located in Iowa, Illinois, Indiana and Michigan. On reaching Springfield
we find an up-todate city of 30,000 population, and one can hardly
realize that men yet in active life made this a battle ground.
As it is nearly night when the train reaches this point, it is
best to remain till morning and then pursue the journey to the
southeast.
After breakfast
we are again on the way through a country full of natural and
historical interest. From the summit of the Ozarks at Springfield
to the shadows of Red mountain at Birmingham, the tourist on the
Southeastern line of the Frisco for the first time is never out
of sight of something to interest and attract. Whether skirting
the bluffs and gorges of the Ozarks, or speeding through the cotton
plantations of Mississippi and Arkansas, the traveler cannot fail
to realize that this is a great country. In traveling over this
line there is not the sameness and lonesomeness that is experienced
on the great plains of the West.
Soon after leaving Springfield the country is more broken and
shows more signs of its mountainous nature. While this region
is called the Ozarks, it would be more proper to call it a plateau
with rugged foothills, for the elevation never reaches much above
1,600 feet. From here the farms are smaller, and more land is
found that is still covered with virgin forests. Land is much
cheaper in this section, and the number of new farms being opened
indicates that people are taking advantage of this condition.
There are many good farms through here, but the greater part of
the land is too stony and broken for the use of much farm machinery,
hence less grain raising and more fruit and grass. This is the
part of Missouri where the greatest development has been made
in fruit culture, and for 140 miles southeast of Springfield one
is scarcely out of sight of orchards, some of which are among
the largest in the world.
At Cedar Gap, 41 miles from Springfield, the highest point
on the Ozark mountain range, is passed, and soon we are on the
down grade, or what is sometimes called the sunny side of the
Ozarks. Cedar Gap gets its name from the gap or pass in the mountains
which unfolds a view in either direction that once seen is not
easily forgotten because of the panorama of hill and valley, and
the long distance that can be seen. It is said that a summer resort
is to be created here that will have few equals in this country,
and that it will attract summer sojourners from long distances,
even from Europe. Mansfield, the next station, contests with Cedar
Gap the honor of occupying the crest of the Ozarks. This town
is coming into considerable prominence as a mining town, there
being some good lead and zinc mines in the vicinity, and there
are many who think more valuable metals will yet be found in paying
quantities in the surrounding hills. It is here that we see the
first real evidences of the lumber industry of South Missouri,
and of the oak and pine forests of the Ozarks, and from this point
few towns are passed until the Mississippi river is reached that
are not supplied with one or more saw mills.
Without going into details as to the various towns, it may
be noted that Mountain Grove, 67 miles from Springfield, is a
pretty and enterprising town, and the seat of the State Fruit
Experiment Station. Fruit culture is the leading industry. At
Willow Springs the Current river branch of the Frisco System leaves
the main line. This is an important railroad and lumber town.
Soon after leaving Willow Springs we pass through Pomona, which
has a wide reputation for its fruit interests, and Olden, the
seat of one of the largest fruit farms in the world. After passing
Olden the next town is West Plains, the county seat of Howell
county, and a beautiful and enterprising town of about 4,000,
with numerous important interests, including a good college. Here
we see the first evidence of the cotton fields that we are soon
to enter. This vicinity has some excellent lead and zinc mines,
and is backed by a fine farming country. After leaving West Plains
we pass through Brandsville and Koshkonong, towns justly celebrated
for the quantity and quality of their fruit. Grape culture is
here brought to a high state of perfection, and it has here been
demonstrated to a certainty that grape culture is to be one of
our most profitable industries in that section. At Thayer, a division
station, we are at the state line and soon are in Arkansas. It
may properly be added here that thousands upon thousands of acres
of these fine fruit lands have never been touched, and can be
bought at very low prices, and there is room for thousands of
families to secure a foothold in this most pleasant and profitable
business.
Shortly after
crossing the Arkansas line the town of Mammoth Spring is reached,
and it is a most delightful place. The town gets its name from
the big spring which bursts from the bluffs, and at the outset
forming a river of respectable proportions. This spring is large
enough to furnish power sufficient to run a large amount of machinery,
and it is only a question of time when this town will be an important
manufacturing center, especially of products made from wood and
cotton. After leaving Mammoth Spring we follow a fork of Black
river for many miles, and the scenery is delightful. This section
is well timbered, but development is not far advanced. This is
a corn and cotton country, and both crops do well when cultivated,
and the leading tame grasses are especially abundant. After getting
out of the Ozark hills the country is generally level and in some
places low. It is heavily timbered where the timber has not already
been cut. The land is unusually rich and capable of producing
immense crops, and the price is low enough to be attractive to
the poor for homes and the rich for investment. The homeseeker
who buys a forest home here has the advantage that the timber
will yield ready money, and if good management is used will pay
for the land and its clearing, and support the family in the meantime.
It is an excellent stock country, also, and this industry is growing
rapidly, as the fine grasses, good corn and short winters all
contribute to that end. In the overflow districts there is more
or less malaria, but improvement and drainage are rapidly reducing
this to a minimum. What has been done for Northern Ohio and Indiana
by drainage will soon be done for the flat districts of Northeast
Arkansas, and rapid development may be looked for from now forward.
The principal town on this line in Northeast Arkansas is Black
Rock, a town noted for the industry of getting pearls from fresh-water
mussels, and for the manufacture of buttons from the shells. It
is said that during the present season not less than $100,000
has been paid for these pearls. Hoxie is a good town at a railroad
junction, lumbering being the principal industry. Jonesboro is
the largest and most important of these towns, and is a place
of much promise. It has good railroad facilities and a good start
in various manufacturing enterprises. All through Northeast Arkansas
the northern traveler will be interested in the different varieties
of timber, the cotton fields, the way houses are built in the
overflow districts, and by the dykes that keep the waters of the
Mississippi from flooding vast areas at every overflow. About
sunset we cross the Father of Waters and steam into Memphis, one
of the most important cities of the South, and here we remain
over night. At Memphis we enter on the third stage of this delightful
journey, though one is never in a hurry to leave Memphis, for
it can't be "done" in a day. There is much to see here
that will interest the man of business, the lover of beautiful
homes and charming drives. Besides the people are so hospitable
in every way that one is loth to linger among them. Between St.
Louis and New Orleans, Memphis is the most important commercial
center in the South. It is growing rapidly in manufacturing enterprises,
and there are those who confidently predict that by the next census
it will have quite a quarter of a million population.
For a time
after leaving Memphis the country is not very interesting except
as to historical associations. The first town of importance is
Holly Springs, with a population of 3,000. This place ships more
cotton probably than any town of its size in the state. A large
compress situated near the Frisco System depot reduces thousands
of bales from the surrounding country, and during the season in
addition to the local dealers there are buyers there from New
Orleans, Fall River and other points. Holly Springs also enjoys
a reputation far beyond state lines for its excellent schools
and the high social tone of its people.
For many miles the road passes through a cotton country, where
corn and cotton are in evidence on every hand. Much of this country
offers inducements for new northern blood, as land is cheap, and
northern methods would soon make it very productive. Of course,
there are many fine farm, and plantations which show prosperity
and progress, but this spirit is not as prevalent as it might
be. There are considerable stretches where the country is as yet
uncultivated, and these offer good opportunities for new blood.
There are numerous good towns along the line, and the prosperity
of these towns proves that there is even a more productive country
back from the line of railroad than near the road. A stop of a
few hours at Tupelo, Miss., would interest any northern tourist.
Here could be seen the whole process of manufacturing cotton,
from the plant in the field to the finished cloth, or the refined
oil from the seed. At Tupelo the United States Government has
located a fish hatchery. Tupelo is an interesting and growing
;own, and has a fine country to support it.
At Amory a branch of the Frisco System extends to the important
lumbering town of Aberdeen. The greater portion of Mississippi
is well supplied with timber, and there is considerable manufacturing
of wood products.
The Frisco System enters Alabama about 100 miles west of Birmingham,
and soon after crossing the line the character of the country
seems to change and become more hilly. The fields are smaller
and valleys narrower. There is some fine scenery to attract the
tourist, and some pretty streams are crossed. The land is heavily
timbered where it has not been cut oft. Soon after entering Alabama
we strike the great coal fields, the richest in the world. This
is the celebrated Warrior coal field, and it has an area of 7,810
square miles, and the Frisco System passes nearly through its
center from east to west. It is Estimated that a production of
10,000 tons per day would require 10,275 years to exhaust the
coal in this district. It is an excellent quality of coal for
steam or coke. This coal basin extends to Birmingham, where it
comes in contact with mountains of iron, which makes a combination
that is hard to beat for manufacturing purposes. Birmingham is
one of the leading manufacturing centers of the country, and is
growing faster now than at any time in its history. The city is
so located that the manufacture of all articles which require
wood, iron or cotton can be made in competition with any place
on earth. It would be interesting to the tourist to visit and
inspect the immense iron and steel mills and see how these industries
are conducted. The cotton factories would also interest, as would
also those for wood products. The northern tourist would be surprised
to see such an enterprising, modern city, and would still further
realize the greatness of the country and the progress that has
been made in the South during the present generation.
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