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Chapter XXII
The Catskill Park
By T. Morris Longstreth |
During the progress of that day when Brute and I had reduced the art
of being invited to motor to a strict science, we had come through
Roxbury. As everybody who has been through Roxbury knows, to see it
once is to be enthralled for life. Consequently, when I was deserted
by my enlister, I determined to make that charming place my
headquarters from which I could sally on a raid of investigation and
to which I could return to digest the spoils.
Roxbury has a civic consciousness. It has its history, which was
recently reviewed in a pageant admirably constructed by Margaret
MacLaren Eager, beginning with the decision of John and Betty More in
Scotland to emigrate, continuing with pictures of Indian times,
Colonial customs, and coming down to the moment with a fine tribute
to John Burroughs, fellow townsman. It has a beautiful church given
by the Goulds, a park, and an environment where Nature has been
kindest. There are mountains, but they do not shut one in.
There are a myriad streams. And the people, in addition to their
daily business, have one and all caught the cue of happiest living.
No one comes to their town without being made to feel at home,
without reacting to this fillip of good-fellowship. I am sure that
this is not merely a personal impression. I have talked with many
other strangers who acknowledged the flavor of kindness peculiar to
this spot.
From Roxbury I made several excursions, to keep fit. One, on a day of
picture-postcard colors, included Pine Hill and the summit of Belle
Ayre. A steel tower gives a view of the slide on Slide; of
Double-top, another elephant; of Overlook, a far retreating wave; of
the sharp-edged Stony Clove; of Utsayantha in the dim northwest; of
Tower and Windham High Peak. Big Injin Valley is particularly
appealing from Belle Ayre, with its Lost Clove nosing into the
mountain's side. Big Balsam Lake Mountain rises high with its wealth
of forest about it. I stood on the porch of the Grand View Hotel,
which is confronted by the long wall of Belle Ayre and looks up Big
Injin Valley to a distant but still impressive view of Slide and the
Wittenberg. I curved through the daisied pastorals of the Bovina
valleys, and took many another jaunt, going sometimes to recommended
places, but oftener where only the names suggested something of interest.
The Catskills have got off better than other picturesque parts of our
country in the matter of names. Esopus, Ashokan, Neversink,
Schoharie, Vly, Onti Ora, Devasego, Ticetonyk, Utsayantha, Pine
Orchard, Peekamose -- these are beautiful and have some character.
But, like the forest, the animal life, the wild-flowers even, names
are in danger. There are too many renamed for capitalists and
chewing-gums. History depends on names, and a nation's chronicles are
rich or thin according to the ease with which time-laden designations
are changed in behalf of the richest corner grocer. There ought to be
a censorship for new names. If the Rubicon and Rheims were
rechristened Mudbank and New Ashland, if Olympus were rewritten High
Peak, the world would be the loser. The historical societies had
better start a little research and fix up some of the Maple Shades
and Pleasantvilles, or poets will never be much moved to celebrate
our own heroics.
I met a gentleman, the other day, who told me that he had been
instrumental in getting the name of one town, whose pretty name I
forget, changed to Arkville. Arkville! Even Noah himself
forbore to do that! "Tabby-cat" or "Mule" would
not be a more witless scream. Since the gentleman was eighty-five, I
could out grin and bear it. But I silently wished that he had
descendants who would have to dwell in the suburbs of Arkville named,
I suppose, Larkville or Darkville or Barkville. People need not
complain about the dun placidity of their existence while they are
content with such mediocrity of milieu. The cheerful ugliness
of a baboon's face is at least stimulating, and if there be any
virtue in personality, it were better to struggle with Przemysl than
lapse to the imbecility of much of our present nomenclature.
While roaming the Catskill woods alone I had an excellent chance to
compare the beauties and advantages of a hard-wood forest with those
of the soft-wood and mixed forests of the Adirondacks, with which I
had been more familiar. Undoubtedly the most appealing tree-land in
the East is the unburned, coniferous, primeval forest occurring in
the gifted recesses of the Adirondacks. There the great trees are far
apart; there is little brush; the floor is soft, spongy, thick, and
occasional huge birches add just the final touch of lighter beauty.
In the Adirondacks there are less than 100,000 acres of this left,
and in the Catskills none at all. In the Catskills there are only
40,000,000 board feet of soft woods standing, three quarters of it
spruce and the rest hemlock, with just a little balsam on the high
slopes, and a scattering of pine, cedar, and tamarack. There are
133,000,000,000 board feet of hard woods, birch and maple each
totaling more than all the soft woods, the beech and poplar totaling
respectively thrice and twice as much as all the remaining
miscellaneous hard woods.
Compared to the great Adirondack wilderness, with its 8,000,000,000
of board feet, the Catskills seem a mere wood-lot. But if you will
look down from Belle Ayre or Slide or Balsam Lake Mountain, you will
heave a sigh of satisfaction that there is so much of it.
The future of the Catskills depends upon its trees. These are
situated inside an area called the Forest Preserve, in which is the
Catskill Park, the choicer, central area to be even more rigorously
protected. When a man steps from his train into the deep wood and
sees the birch shining about him, the great sugar-maples f orming
vast overheads of green, the beeches a dense bower of shade, and here
and there a hemlock, a locust, a thorn-tree, a poplar grove, or a
sentinel pine, he gives thanks that someone was far-sighted enough to
foresee the Park and put the legislation through. |
If I were landscape-gardener to the Elysian Fields, I would have them
mostly forest. There should be worshipful groves of white pine for
the devout, and much bed-assuaging balsam for the sleepy; there
should be hemlock for dignity, and the delicate tamarack and all the
spruces. But also there should be beautiful vales of beech, and
shore-lines of white birch, and many another landscape as if it were
the Catskills. Nor would I forget to have much white ash and the
coon-beloved basswood, as in the lower valleys of all the Catskills.
But I would not admit those yellow-birch thickets and sapling
cherries of which one finds so much in the burnt sections.
In the Catskill Park it is hard to say whether the maple, the beech,
or the birch is the prevailing tree; for, at one time or another,
each makes such an appeal as to make you wish it predominant. The
birch is first, by all standards of beauty. Against winter snows it
shines slim and pale, and in the midsummer dusk it shows shy and
supple and worthy of Diana. Beneath the white bark is a crocus green,
and beneath that umber, and beneath that honest wood which is good
for burning, green or tinder-dry. The birch can be used for shelter
by day and for torch by night. It always responds to the intelligent
demand, is free from the plague -- the supreme example in nature of
use and beauty going hand in hand.
The beech is also invaluable. In spring its delicate foliage is the
tenderest of dreams this side the tamarack's; in summer it becomes a
bower of shade; in fall a burnished marvel of beaten gold; and in
winter the white parchment tissue tries to clothe the gray nakedness
of the smoothboled tree. Its wood is strong. Its fruit, the
three-sided nut, keeps more animals from starvation, probably, than
any other single item of diet, except possibly field-mice. Even the
leaf buds all the winter long, slim spikes of brown, are marks of
beauty. The beech at its perfection is the epitome of strength and
grace and color, -- a forest panther.
The sugar-maple was created on a happy day. Why some trees should be
so heavily endowed, while others languish in poverty of fiber and of
sap, is a mystery that I dedicate to John Burroughs to explain. It is
a tree to set before a king, if he be sweet-toothed. He will have
sugar for his mush, syrup for his cakes, and all tried out over a
sugar-maple flame. For, though it seems sinful to cut the tree for
stoves, yet it is an excellent fire-wood.
The Catskills are a vast expanse of confectionery. Wild honey, wild
strawberries, wild sugar! In late March or early April whole groves
of gray mottled trees glitter with buckets at their waists. To look
at the slow drops, and to realize that it takes fifty quarts of sap
to make a pound of sugar, is to appreciate the privileges of the
corner grocery. What an unmerciful life our forebears led! Flax to
grow, candles to dip, sugar to concoct from oozy trees. No wonder
Longfellow thought that life was real and earnest. On the other hand,
when you cease to be a looker-on and begin to manipulate your own
testing pans, to pour the syrup on snow, when spring is in the air
and this celestial candy in your mouth you wonder how anybody can
bear to patronize a store.
The spruce cannot rank with this gifted company. It appeals neither
to the palate nor to the eye. Its coat is rough, its life-blood
sticky, its shape neither tapered to the exquisite spire of the
balsam nor spread with the generous wideness of the pine. Yet it
strengthens the Catskill forest. All cannot be aerial birch; there
must be shadow. The spruce has its dream in spring, too, when it puts
out green fingers to strengthen its hold on the world. Then, with
that secured, it dozes off again into the grim silence of its normal mood.
There are many other trees to interest the man who allows himself to
observe the unobtruding forest: yellow pine, walnut, shagbark
hickory, the cedars, aspens, and poplars, willows, and the fine
foliaged ironwood, alders to set the fisher wild, a chestnut here and
there, and chestnut oaks, elms to make New England envious,
witch-hazel, shiny sweet-gum, the mottled sycamore, shadbush and
cherry, a tribe of maples, dogwood, and a rich underwood of laurel
and a dozen shrubs. . . .
New Yorkers have earned the name of their State. They are the Empire
builders. With a double-barreled intelligence, they have decreed
their great parks for recreation and for use. They have preserved
their wide forests from extinction, and are now setting about
applying the scientific management that utilizes-fire lanes,
watchtowers, and expert lumbering, which takes only the mature trees
and does not leave slash to precipitate frightful fires. As certainly
as the groves were God's first temples, most lumbermen have been
Huns. A desecrated woodland is only less wrath-compelling than
shattered cathedrals and dissected children. But the Hunless world is
coming, and with it the time when campers put out their fires, when
fishermen throw their cigarette stumps in the brook, when
berry-pickers take less heed for the morrow at the land-owners'
expense, when all railroads use oil for fuel, and when those men who
want to take out a grudge on the State will shoot their victims
instead of burning up posterity 's trees.
In the Catskills one can enjoy, then, an extensive forest, covering a
country partly mountainous and partly rolling, a few small lakes, a
wealth of running water; a place for camping, or boarding with simple
folk, or putting up at expensive hotels. Above all, one has proximity
to New York. And this fact brings me to a delicate topic: the
relation of Jew and Gentile -- a bull that I must take by the horns,
and that I think I can gently lead away and yet stay honest. Let me
repeat two remarks: One of my friends exclaimed, when I mentioned my
trip: "Didn't you find it overrun with Jews?" And one day,
while walking through Fleischmann's, I overheard this: "Wouldn't
there be too many Gentiles in Hunter?" "Oh! Not enough to hurt."
So long as there are so many inconsiderate Jews, so many
non-practising Christians, it will be easier for both to keep
clannishly apart. In the Catskills there are certain sections visited
exclusively by Jews and others exclusively by Gentiles. One race
likes one thing and the other another. It seems infinitely petty to
me for either to sacrifice the charms and satisfactions of a
beautiful region because he might be disturbed by the other. The
slightest amount of investigation will suffice to find such sections,
and will be repaid by the unique values of the Catskill country.
And, now that I have come to the valedictory, I wonder whether I have
made you realize the unique values of the Park without over-painting.
For the globe-trotter who boasts of his planetizing ability and cares
for sights only as they are big, there is precious little in the
Catskills. For the man who must have beetling crags, and whose
enjoyment is ruined if there is another man in the same county, there
is but little more. But for him who is not blind to one type of
beauty simply because he can remember others, the Catskill Mountains
and their surrounding hills are rich with a variety of wealth quite
unimaginable. Before I visited them I imagined that they were a set
of mediocre hills infested by a sandwich-eating summer populace. I
found impressive ranges, noble cliffs, forests with game, streams
with fish, and I came away with recollections of many cheerful
firesides. In no other American vacation-land can one find a more
interesting alternation of forest tramping and village living, a
richer background of subdued mountain and inviting valley, a
sympathetic native population with finer historic antecedents and
more solid qualities. If the Eternal isn't visible to you there, it
will never be in remoter lands. Happiness may not be the supreme
good, but it is a joyful desideratum. It is found only where there is
harmony between the without and the within. For experiments in
harmonizing, I know of no more convenient spot than this Land of
Little Rivers. Certainly it overflowed with gladness for Brute and
for me, and for its satisfactions we many a time thanked God and the
State of New York |
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